I return to Iowa after 1 month having visited the western portion near the South Dakota border. During that trip I set out to see the Iowa High Point but I still had an unfinished goal of completing a half marathon in the state so I knew I was coming back. For those that know me I try to run a half marathon and climb the highest point in every state. I am currently at 11/50 in High Points and 34/50 in Half Marathons.
Best way to start exploring a city is by finding a mural designed like a welcome postcard. Des Moines is lucky to have a prominent one just downtown. Titled “Better Together, Better Forever” by Ben Schuh, each letter contains an image that represents a landmark located within Des Moines.
Ben is a pretty prolific artist within town, another notable mural within town is this one titled “Cheers from Des Moines”. It also features local landmarks along with an ode to biking culture.
Another great artist with plenty of street art across town is Chris Vance. Below are a couple of pieces he designed:
Just like how the Citgo sign is synonymous with the city of Boston or how the Western Auto sign graces KC, in Des Moines the emblematic giant sign is the red travelers sign with an umbrella. The Travelers company is mostly known for insurance and Des Moines just happens to be the 3rd largest insurance headquartered center in the world behind London and Hartford
Speaking of iconic signs, one that caught my attention was this one that reads: “Colonial is good Bread, Try it!” by the Colonial Bakery which closed in 2000. Today the site is owned by the Des Moines Public School to serve breakfast and lunch meals to nearly 20,000 students
If you want to find good architecture look no further than the Iowa state capitol. It carries the distinction of being the only five-domed capitol in the country
Inside they provide free tours to the public to learn about the history of Iowa, how the capitol was constructed as well as functions within the many rooms. By far the most impressive thing you will see there is the Iowa Law Library Staircase. With the helix form it has, it would appear as if it defies gravity:
Before you leave the capitol grounds one additional thing to check out is the 135 foot Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Civil War Monument. Nearly 80,000 military men from Iowa served in the Civil War, the largest number of soldiers per capita of any state participating during the war.
While you are in this area called the East Village, be sure to check out Raygun
It is probably the best spot to shop for souvenirs and t shirts with funny text. Below is one relating to a main artery in Des Moines:
As you cross the Des Moines River to get back to downtown, you’ll come across this single-arch pedestrian bridge named the Women of Achievement Bridge. It was dedicated to honor Iowa women who left their mark on history.
Within the vicinity you also have the Robert D. Ray Asian Gardens. The highlight is the the beautiful Asian pavilion. Namesake is governor of Iowa who served from 1969–1983. Renowned for welcoming refugees, sending aid, and helping forge a bond with Japan, China, and other Asian countries.
On the other side of the bridge you will find a skate park distinguished for being the largest in the country. If you notice the steel lettering in red of “WOW”, that is skate-able too
Another interesting structure along the banks of the river is the World Food Prize building. It was formerly the site of the public library which opened in 1903. Today it serves as a museum to recognize great achievements in agriculture.
One of the main thoroughfares downtown is Court Ave, aptly named because it is the site of the Polk County Courthouse. Built in 1906 and notable example of the Beaux-Arts style.
Right outside it a Farmer’s Market takes place every Saturday 8–12 rated #2 Best Farmers’ Market in America by the Daily Meal. You can also see in the background the neon sign of a historic hotel called the Hotel Randolph. It was built in 1912, ceased operations in 2013. It has since gotten renovated and returned in 2016 as apartments/condos.
Below you have the Saddlery Building built in 1881. It was a manufacturer of saddlery and harness products for the horses. Today it houses Court Avenue Restaurant & Brewing Company on the first level.
A establishment in the area that cannot be missed is Fong’s Pizza. It is a fusion restaurant keeping intact the decor of a storied Chinese establishment that had been in business since 1907. When the last Chinese owners decided to close permanently, the space was slated to re-open as a late night pizza joint. Their original idea was to turn it into a tiki bar and then figured why not preserve all the historical artifacts of the previous Chinese restaurant and come up with creative menu that blends both worlds? That is how such creations like Crab Rangoon pizza came into being and it was such a hit that it expanded to three other locations in the state.
Hippee Building completed in 1913 served as an office for banking until getting acquired by a hotel group to turn it into a 138-room hotel
Des Moines Masonic Temple was built in 1913. By the 1980’s it was in total disrepair until it was saved by redevelopment to mixed use of restaurants on the first floor and educational space for the Des Moines Symphony Academy for the rest of the floors.
801 Grand completed in 1991 and standing at 630 ft is currently the tallest building in the state of Iowa
Ford & Garland was established in 1958 by Dean Garland and Henry Ford doing radio repairs, sales, and service. They have somehow survived through five decades of change in mobile electronics and continue offering the latest technology and superior service.
The Crane building historically a toilet and plumbing fixture supply factory built in 1916 renovated today into loft style apartments for local artisans
The Butler building built in 1906 was a jazz club was once upon a time, Blues on Grand. In 2010, it reopened as Gas Lamp, a bar featuring blues, to rock to country to pop.
Around here you also have the John and Mary Pappajohn Sculpture Park. It is capstone of the broad redevelopment project that revitalized downtown Des Moines. The Western Gateway park was created from this and the addition of these sculptures donated by the family just gave it more vitality. You will find pieces by famous international sculptors such as Mark di Suvero, Jaume Plensa and Louise Bourgeois
Brown-Camp Hardware Company was a hardware distributor. The site is now converted into residential lofts while keeping intact the old water tower
There was a local delicacy I had to try while I was there. The infamous tenderloin which is breaded and fried pork loin in a small bun. I had to go to this place as it was rated best sandwich in Iowa at this very spot.
To me it tasted like schnitzel. It was too much fried and batter for me, I could have gone with a smaller portion and not felt overwhelmed especially since I also ordered a side of onion rings to go along with it.
I’d miss out if I didn’t explore areas outside of downtown. One of the sights was the High Trestle Trail running for 25 miles through five towns and four counties. The trail includes an iconic, 1/2-mile, 13-story high bridge across the Des Moines River valley, one of the largest trail bridges in the world. Now I was eager to get a bike rental but unfortunately couldn’t find a shop that was near the end of the trail since I knew I couldn’t do 50 miles and still race a half marathon the next day. So I ended up just doing the walk across the bridge,
The rail-trail art installations consists of 43 twisting, diamond-shaped steel ribs lined with LED lights, the bridge elicits the sensation of traveling down a mine shaft — a nod to the area’s coal-mining history.
Below are just some views overlooking the bridge:
To wrap up let me share some recommendations for basic necessities based on spots I hit up during my trip:
Coffee:
- Scenic Route Bakery (East Village)
- Slow Down Coffee (Highland Park/Oak Park)
- Daisy Chain Coffee (East Village)
- Horizon Line Coffee (West End Artist District)
Dining:
- Dirt Burger (East Village): veggie burgers
- Fong‘s Pizza
- Smitty’s
- Maid-Rite (Ankeny): I know its fast food but its supposedly the best spot to get loose meat sandwich
- El Bait Shop
- Spaghetti Works
Microbreweries:
- Confluence Brewing
